No power, scooter won't move with key
- Circuit breaker on main control box is tripped
- Fuse blown (check fuse in main control box assembly).
- Incorrect polarity at battery terminals
- Dead batteries.
- Charging cable is still connected to charging receptacle
- One of the cable connections at the main control box is loose.
- Control connection cable disconnected
- Broken key switch
- Throttle stuck fully open
- Throttle control potentiometer broken.
- Speed potentiometer broken
- Check above possible causes first. If these
check OK, the problem is likely to in the control connection cable or
upper control box Verify that the upper control box is getting 24V.
(Blue wire on red connector.)
- If the upper control box is not getting
24V, replace control connection cable
- If the upper control box is getting 24V,
check key switch operation and verify wiring in the upper control box.
Trace voltage from keyswitch on to find where the problem occurs.
(Replace upper control box if necessary.)
Scooter has reduced power, limited speed
- One or both batteries need replacement.
- Insufficient charging time, batteries are not fully charged.
- Fault with charger, batteries not receiving a proper charge
- Cable connectors not making proper contact.
- Corrosion or bad connection at battery terminals.
- Battery charger circuit breaker tripped .
- Perform a battery load test
- Check all wire connections from batteries
to control box.
- Check battery charger output.
- Check battery charger for short circuit or
- Check battery charger AC Circuit Breaker
Scooter has no power or reduced power in
forward or reverse.
- Cable connection may be lose.
- Throttle control lever has slipped on potentiometer shaft and is not
achieving full rotation.
- Throttle or speed potentiometer is broken.
- Throttle control lever is not centered on potentiometer shaft.
- Acceleration trim pot on control box circuit board is adjusted to
- Motor not receiving proper voltage, or motor not working
- Reset cable connection, tighten nuts on
- Test throttle and speed potentiometers
- Examine Throttle control lever for
looseness on potentiometer shaft.
- Verify that brake completely disengages
when Throttle control lever is pressed.
- Verify motor voltage from the main control
box assembly. (Should range from 0V to 24V as you engage throttle
control to full throttle.
- If motor voltage is OK, check motor to
ensure it is drawing around 4 A unloaded. (If motor is drawing too
much current, replace motor.)
Erratic throttle control,
scooter hesitates in forward or reverse, dead spots in throttle control
- Faulty throttle control potentiometer.
- Loose cable connection to motor.
- Loose battery terminal connection.
- Worn carbon brushes or springs in motor
- Test throttle control potentiometer or try
with a different upper control box assembly.
- Check cable connections to motor and
- Test with new motor installed.
Horn sounds weakly when throttle applied.
- Low battery voltage.
- Fault at upper control box circuit board
- Moisture in the upper control box.
- Load test batteries and check battery
- Test with new upper control box assembly.
If this resolves problem change circuit board
suddenly stops while in motion and brakes engage instantly.
- Lost contact at key switch.
- Fuse blown at main control box assembly.
- Lost connection in wire harness.
- Circuit breaker tripped on control box.
- Fuse blown in upper control box assembly.
- Relay not working or lost connection to relay.
- Check all wire harness connections.
- Check fuses and circuit breakers.
- Try replacing with new control console.
- Check connections on relay. Replace relay
- Overload caused by excessive demand on motors.
- Heavy load on a steep incline .
- Brakes seized or no disengaging causing motor to strain and
- Low tire pressure or seized wheel bearings
- Find out what type of terrain and load
scooter is subject to. May require more powerful model.
- Check that the batteries capacity matches
demand from motors.
- Make certain brakes disengage when scooter
- Check that motor is not drawing too much
current (should be approx. 4 amps unloaded.)
- If no fault found elsewhere replace circuit
Control box hum,
brakes disengage (click) when key switched on up. Scooter moves slowly
without touching throttle control.
- Throttle has not returned to neutral position.
- May be stuck partial open.
- Return spring worn or broken
- Potentiometer not centered at neutral.
- Throttle control getting stuck on plastic tiller cover.
- With an ohmmeter test throttle control
potentiometer for neutral
- Examine return spring for excessive play.
- Check for any obstructions in throttle
control lever path.
- Straighten upper control box if necessary.
yellow and / or green LED lights.
- Battery cable connectors not making proper contact.
- Fault in control connection cable.
- Fault in upper control box assembly.
- Lost connection at relay for charging interlock in control box.
- Tighten battery cable connections with
wrench or pliers to ensure proper contact.
- Check control connection cable for shorted
or open lines.
- Check upper control box assembly for any
visible faults, loose wire, etc.
- Replace with another upper control box
assembly if necessary.
braking power, slow to engage, slipping on incline.
- Brakes worn out.
- Weak spring brake.
- Deceleration trim pot on control box circuit board improperly
- Throttle control pot not centered.
- Brake should engage 3 – 5 seconds after
- Check wire connection to magnetic brake
- Replace electromagnetic brake if necessary
- Adjust the dec. trim pot on control box
circuit board (only IPC or Curtis 1203 style).
- Listen for brake clicking on then off when
key switched on
disengage or engage randomly.
- Faulty electromagnetic brake.
- Wires to brake disconnected.
- Fault in wiring or in control box.
- Test for voltage at wire harness to the
brake by connecting a voltmeter and applying throttle. If no voltage
present, problem is with control box.
- Test spring brake. Scooter should not be
able to roll with power off.
- Listen for brake engaging when key turned
on. (Brake should stay engaged until throttle is pushed, then
disengage or click off.)
Motor runs but
scooter does not move.
- Free wheeling lever at transaxle is not engaged.
- Free wheel lever is slipping on shaft
- If there is difficulty engaging lever roll
the scooter ahead at bit and try again. Sometimes gears are just
slightly out of mesh with each other.
from transaxle area.
- Gear lubricant not reaching parts of transaxle.
- Wheel axle bearings contaminated or worn out.
- Imperfect mounting surfaces between transaxle and motor face plate
- Pull motor and check grease level in the
transaxle. It should be approximately ½ cup of oil or grease. Gear
lubricant can gravitate and pool in low areas, missing some parts.
- Remove motor and rotate 180 degrees, then
- Inspect wheel axle bearings.
- Make sure that all nuts and clamps are
- Make certain that the motor gasket is in
Scooter stops but
lights and horn dont work
- Charging relay in motor control box is not secure.
- Problem with the motor control printed circuit (PC) board
- Open motor control box and remove the
electricians tape from the relay. Make sure all the connections are
intact. Re-insulate and secure the relay so that it cannot move.
- Replace PC board.
Scooter pulls to
- Uneven tire pressure in from wheels.
- Excessive tire wears on one wheel.
- Front wheels out of alignment.
- Worn ball joints or excessive play in linkage.
- Wheel bearing worn out or contaminated
- Lift front end and secure handle bar. Grasp
wheel and rock back and forth watching for loose joints.
Excessive play in
steering, squealing fro tires when moving on floors.
- Front wheel out of alignment.
- Worn ball joints or excessive play in linkage.
- Squealing is caused by wheels pointed in
different directions. Raise front end and secure steering handle bar.
Rock wheels back and forth watch for loose or worn steering linkage.
Use a strait edge on tires to see if they are out of alignment.
not charging or not holding charge.
- Battery voltage too low.
- Faulty charging cable.
- Charger not working.
- Charging circuitry in main control box assembly not working
- Charge batteries with a 12V charger or
replace if necessary.
- Ohm test the charging cable – replace if
- Test scooter with a different charger, if
new charger works, replace charger.
- Check wiring in main control box assembly
– replace in line relay if necessary
- If batteries, charger, and all wiring is
good, replace controller PCB. (Note the model number for the PCB, for
- Brake sticking.
- No voltage to brake. (Brake not releasing.)
- Bad motor.
- Remove 3 screws holding brake to motor and
check if the brake will move freely with your finger.
- If voltage to brake is not 24v when power
is turned on an 0V when throttle is engaged, replace main controller
- Replace motor if necessary.